How to Be Gentle to Your Skin

I've written several articles telling people that the prime directive for successful acne treatment can be summed up in two words, "Wash less." Constant rubbing and drying of the skin not only does not cure acne, it can dry out the skin, shrink pores, and trap sebum inside. But everybody does need to wash every day, and when we do, we need to be gentle. Here's how to avoid the skincare culprits that irritate and inflame as they cleanse the skin.

There are certain kinds of products that simply always irritate skin. Don't use them! The list includes:

Abrasive soaps, such as Lava

Astringents and toners that "tingle"

Icy-cold water

Steamy hot water

Loofahs

Steam treatments

Bar soaps and cleansers

And even when the product itself is gentle to the skin, certain ingredients are always a no-no. Look on the label and avoid any product that includes:

• Ammonia
• Arnica
• Balsam tolu
• Bentonite
• Camphor
• Cinnamon
• Citrus
• Clove
• Eucalpytus
• Eugenol
• Fennel
• Fire
• Geranium
• Grapefruit
• Lemongrass
• Linalool
• Menthol
• Orange
• Papaya
• Peppermint
• Sandalwood
• Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfate
• Sodium laureth sulfate
• Sodium lauryl sulfate
• Thyme
• Wintergreen
• Witch hazel
• Ylang-ylang

You'd be amazed how often these irritating ingredients show up in "gentle" skin cleansers. Sometimes their inclusion is intention. "Anti-itch" ingredients like alcohol, camphor, menthol, mint, and phenol are included because they sting and burn. The idea is, if it burns, it doesn't itch. And that's right. You just don't want it on your face.

So here's how to know the product you are getting is gentle for your skin:

If it burns, stings, or even tingles, it's doing more than just cleansing your skin. If it irritates your skin, don't use it twice.

Like every useful rule, there is an exception. Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) tingle when the begin to work. That's also true of Retin-A, Renova, Differin, and azelaic acid. But cut back if there is more than just a little tingling, and stop altogether if there is redness or worsening inflammation after repeated use.